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phone#(828) 994-2564
1.HOUSEBREAKING
2.CRATE TRAINING
3.BED & OTHER THINGS
4.FEEDING & TREATS
5.STEP-STOP
6.FOOD SUPPLEMENTS
7.Does your dog smell bad?
8.ANAL GLANDS
1.HOUSEBREAKING
A dog or puppy is either housebroken or not.
If your dog is sneaking off to another room and having an
accident, you will have to take some of his freedom away
until you can solve the problem. The longer you allow this
type of behavior to exist, the harder it will be to modify.
Unless you can catch him, it really does not do any good to
drag him off to the site of his mishap and try and punish him.
Keep him in sight if he is bold enough to try something in
front of you, say "No," get his attention and take him outdoors
quickly so he can finish eliminating in the appropriate area.
Remember, it is your house. He has to earn his freedom
through good behavior and this is your responsibility.
Start by establishing an elimination spot outdoors.
In the morning, clip his leash to his collar and take the dog
outdoors to his spot for elimination. State commands like
"go potty" or "hurry up." After he does his duty, bring the dog
inside for food and water. About 15 to 20 minutes after the meal,
take the dog outside again for elimination. Take your dog to his
"spot" at each elimination time. Maintain a regular feeding,
drinking, and elimination schedule.
One of the most commonly made errors in housebreaking is
rushing too quickly ahead of your dog. Too much freedom too
quickly can cause some confusion. If your dog experiences an
accident or two, you will have to back up and slow down.
Marking should not be confused with housebreaking problems
because marking is deliberate. This behavior will arise in dogs
who may be trying to vie for the role of the leader in the
household; marking is a way of claiming territory.
It is advised that if you should notice this behavior indoors
or out, you strengthen all obedience commands immediately.
This will remove all doubts as to who is in charge around the house.
Providing your dog or puppy with a crate that is way too
large may allow him to relieve himself in one end and sleep
in the other. Placing food or water in his crate will allow him
to fill up his bladder and bowel and he will have no choice
but to relieve himself in his crate. Make sure you take your
dog or puppy outdoors to eliminate on a regular schedule and
especially prior to being left for prolonged periods of time.
If you have tried all the above and are still experiencing what
you believe to be "Territorial Marking," consult your veterinarian.
Your dog/puppy may have a bladder infection and it's always best
to be safe, not sorry. If your dog/puppy is not spayed or neutered
you may want to talk to your veterinarian about this procedure.
It usually has a very positive effect on this type of behavior problem.
Even well-trained dogs sometimes have accidents.
Clean the accident area with a pet odor neutralizer so your
dog won't be tempted to repeat his mistake.
Here are some tips to help prevent accidents:
Do not make sudden changes in his diet.
Avoid giving your dog late night snacks.
Make sure to spend enough time outdoors.
2.IT'S NOT A CAGE-IT'S A CRATE!
As a child did you ever play “house” under a sheet-draped table?
Did you ever make a snow fort or a tree house?
Did you ever pull the covers over your head and pretend you were in a cave?
If you have done any of these things, you have taken part in one of
mankind’s most basic instincts--to feel secure in a small, enclosed space.
This need to feel secure is not limited to young humans.
It is part and parcel of every day life for many animals, notably the
den dwelling members of the canine family.
As the human-dog relationship changed from one of hunting
together to that of its present one of the human “bringing home the bacon”
to the waiting dog, the need for humans to understand the dog and its physical and emotional requirements have become of utmost importance.
First-time visitors at dog shows or large kennels are often dismayed at the dogs being in “cages”. The dog needs a safe, secure place to rest and to sleep. There is no cruelty present or intended by taking advantage of an animal’s natural desires.
Just what is a dog crate? It is a six-sided enclosure long enough for the dog to lay down, tall enough for him to sit up, and wide enough for him to lay on his side, legs out-stretched. One side, usually an end, contains a door. Crates can be made of almost any material. Wire, wood/wire, plastic and combinations of all of these in as many shapes and sizes as one can imagine.
Once you have discovered the advantages of owning a crate-trained dog, you will never want to raise a puppy without including the crate in your plans. Unlike humans who consider confinement to be the least desirable of human conditions, for dogs, a place to go where no one else can or will enter is a blessing.
If you are new to using a crate, there are some precautions you should heed:
1. Never put young dog or puppy in a crate to punish it;
2. Always remove all collars before closing the door to the crate;
3. Let your dog sleep in his crate (in your bedroom if at all possible. If not, be sure it is located in a well-used part of the house)
4. Keep one toy in your clothes hamper and let the dog have it in his crate only when he is confined and home alone.
1. Your puppy should look at his crate as his very favorite place to be, short of in your immediate presence. He should be fed in his crate often enough that when the need arises; he will accept the idea. Eating in his crate as a very small puppy will help re-enforce the idea of keeping his nest clean. His dam taught him to stay clean where he ate and to relieve himself as far from his sleeping/eating place as possible.
2. Any crate has mesh of some kind, either all over wire, or at least, a wire mesh door. Those squares or rectangles of mesh can easily capture a tag or a ring of a training collar and then turn, defying release by pulling. Even the brightest dog does not understand that he might be released by going towards the thing that has captured him. At least, you will return to a dog with very sore ears and throat, at worst, a dead dog. Remove the collar, hang it on the crate door if the dog can’t reach it, place it on top of the crate or on a hook or surface nearby. Replace it as soon as you open the crate door.
3 Your puppy or older dog, while cherishing his crate, still wants, needs, to part of the family he considers his pack. When we confine the dog in a remote part of the house, we are rejecting him is his way of looking at our relationship. The dog wants to be the center of attraction, much like a three or four year-old child. A well-adjusted dog will be content to take part in the family activities, even if confined in his crate, if he is nearby.
4. Years ago we would give a puppy our old clothing to sleep with and old shoes to play with. We know better now. Puppies have no way of knowing the difference between our best and our oldest clothing or shoes. To avoid having the dog become confused about what belongs to him and what is ours, we keep our things to ourselves. However, the young dog (and often the older dog also), needs the reassurance that he is part of the pack and that his family has not left him forever. A toy that smells of the family is often all he needs to be content in his crate. He will spend most of his time “home alone” napping, not soiling or being destructive.
If you are planning to get a puppy, please plan to introduce him to a crate when you first bring him home. You will find that years later you and your dog will still be enjoying the advantages of that plan. If you have an older dog, there is no reason for not introducing a crate at any time in his life. Properly introduced, your older dog will be as pleased as a puppy to finally have a place of his own.
3. BED & OTHER THINGS
BED.Try to avoid beds with foam bottoms or sides as your Frenchie or Puggie can and many will tare out the foam and it could get lodged in their throats. Find a well made, durable, washable bed that will last for many years ahead.
VASELINE-use on nose regularly to keep it soft
DOG SHAMPOO\CONDITIONER-Any tearless puppy shampoo is good to start with. And the "dry", no rinse shampoos for quick cleanups are also good. Most puppies will not require a bath that often unless they roll in something objectionable or roll and play in dirt. Good idea to keep baby wipes on hand for quick clean up.
4. FEEDING & TREATS
First, I recomend feed every dog from a dog lifted feeder, not from the floor, to prevent spine and legs damage.
So, we use ajastable dog feeder, looking like this.
We feed all our puppies with Purina Puppy Chow dog food.
Click on Purina's logo to find out more information about their prodacts
Also we can feed our dogs with "Pedigree. Small Breeds" brend or
"Pedigree. Puppy" as well as Purina Puppy Chow..
We give "Roarhide" nylabones to puppies and adults.
The white regular nylabones have never gotten much use
although the flexible flavored nylabones do seem to appeal to
both pups and older dogs. Other treats we use are the chew
sticks available at Walmart or Target & Dr. Dentley's rawhide
chips, available at Petsmart. Also piece of carrot can work just great!
We use cuted on small pieces hotdogs, pieces of cheddar
or american sliced cheese for training treats.
These are work very well. We start using these during
housetraining to let the dogs know they are going in the
right place and keep using them all through their training.
5. STEP-STOP
If you planning to show your puppy, here is good thing to have. I call it step-stop. And you need it to teach your puppy how to stend nicely in one perfect position. It took me about couple hours to make this step-stop. I think, you can do it too!
This is my youngest dog, 3 months old French Bulldog puppy, learning how to stay.
6.FOOD SUPLEMENTS.
To keep bones and teeth of our dogs strong and healthy, while our puppies are groing and females are nursing, when senior dogs start have some artrites problems we give to our dogs this:
To prevent ubnormal shedding and keep skin healthy
and coat shiny we give to our dogs this:
To keep immune system strong and healthy we give this:
7. Does your dog smell bad?
Most dogs have that “dog smell” to them, especially when the come in out of the rain. However, some dogs tend to stink more than others.
Some dogs like to roll in the dirt… and any other smelly item that may be near by. If your dog is prone to doing this then regular brushing, grooming and bathing will help to keep your dog smelling clean and fresh.
Getting sprayed by a skunk is one smell we humans recognize immediately and tomato juice is the most common remedy. However, in order for it to work properly, you need to allow the juice to sit on the dog’s fur for at least 15 to 20 minutes before rinsing. It is the acid in the tomatoes that cuts the smell. Another very popular solution that dog owners swear by is to mix 1 quart 3% Hydrogen Peroxide, 1/4 cup Baking Soda, and 2 tablespoons dish detergent in a large bowl (do not use a sealed container as this mixture will explode). You must use this immediately while it is still foaming as it is the oxygen in the bubbling mixture that removes the skunk odor. Be careful not to get either solution in your pet’s eyes.
To make dog fur soft, shiny and get rid of "wet dog smell" I use on my own dogs next solution: 1 tb spoon of white vinegar and 1 tb spoon of vodka (alcohol) mixed with 1 pint of water. Get wash cloth wet in this solution and rub your dog.
Also rub the dog with baby wipes to get out any dirt and grime, espessially between wrinkles. Choose unscented wipes made for sensitive skin. This helps a dog smell better when a curious dog comes home after a day of exploring messy things.
8. ANAL GLANDS
How to look after anal glands.
Dogs have two anal glands located at 5 and 7 o"clock according to a circle of the anus. Contents of glands are emptied by pressing from two sides of the anus.
For the dogs they serve for marking their territory and for familiarizing with each other. Dogs welcome each other, sniffing behind.
Usually anal glands are emptied when tightning the walls of a direct gut during defication. The secretion is liquid and brownish. It can sometimes be dense, yellow or paste looking. Anal glands are emptied with the contraction of the anal sfincter, being accompanied by a specific smell when the dog is upset or frightened. Usual practice in a grooming salons is to empty and clean the glands before bathing the dog. In most cases there is no necessity to squeeze out glands if there are no special medical indications. But for dogs with overactive anal glands allocation of the secretion can be supervised by human.
How to empty аnal glands:
Lift the tail of the dog and arrange the apertures аnal glands as it is described above. You will feel small dense swellings in perinal areas in a projection of 5 and 7 o'clock. Grasp perinal skin which surrounds the gland with thumb and pointer finger and squeeze it. During emtying the sharp, caustic smell is felt. Wash out secretion.
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All photos used on this site are the property of Jane Burgess and may not be reproduced without permission.
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